Pizza oven floor

[Sp33]

I started my build off without direction
How important is the perilite/ vermiculite on the hearth ? I didn’t think of that

[Sp33]

I have 4 inches of poured concrete 1/2- 3/4 sand and herringbone fire brick , I’m wondering if this would be adequate

[bikerbudmatt]

Hi Steve and welcome to the BrickWood forum.

Sorry to say, but it won’t be adequate for keeping the floor hot. Firebrick is a refractory that will inject heat energy back into the oven as long as it has insulation behind it, but the concrete underneath will pull heat out as fast as it can.

If you are able to, I urge you to go back and read the directions for building the hearth slab. You may be able to modify it to reflect where you are with things, but the insulated layer under the fire brick is one of the least expensive and easiest parts of the oven to build.

The stone work on your base is gorgeous! I’d sincerely like for your oven to turn out pizza to match, and hope you will ask more questions here.

[Sp33]

Thanks for your swift reply and compliment, I’m in the process of figuring out a solution.

[Sp33]

Hey buddy, I’m thinking of removing the stainless angle that I put in to support the sand running to Norman‘s across the front, and then pouring the pear light mixture in, then another course all the way around to lock the floor in and put the angle iron back, would it be helpful at all to put wheep holes along the front?Normans?

[Sp33]

Uploading: 963BF36F-97B5-4F34-BA08-A09DA33F5C36.jpeg…

[Tooschaye]

I can’t see the last picture you uploaded (the first ones look great) and don’t understand your proposed solution.

But just wanted to second Bikerbud… IMHO good floor insulation is critical to crispy crusts.

[Sp33]

I’m going to have elevated floor , putting the perilite in next then another course of brick then put herringbone pattern and angle iron back

[Sp33]

Thank you guys for the feedback crispy crust is a must have !

[Sp33]

Here’s my plan coming back to life , excited to overcome my mistake and carry on with the build !

[bikerbudmatt]

In sports they’d call this a “great save.” Thanks for the photos and please keep them coming.

I’ve seen a couple of builds where a crucial step was missed and the builder just kept on going thinking it would all work out in the end—which it didn’t.

I really admire you for stopping and checking, and your solution is well thought out. Here’s to a crispy crust!

[Sp33]

Thanks for the help , I’m happier with my results I’ve never worked with brick before! I ended up with 2.5 inches of perlite!

[Sp33]

Hey all, Here’s a few photos, I’m ready to start the dome , does it matter if it’s done over a couple of days?

[Sp33]

I forgot to mention I’m wrapping the form with 6 inch packing tape , hoping to salvage it as you can see I had to shim the form up for alignment purposes so I’m hoping when I remove the shims it will move down a bit to ease removal, theoretically it could work!

[bikerbudmatt]

@Sp33

I’m ready to start the dome , does it matter if it’s done over a couple of days?

It does not. I started my dome in late October of one year and picked it up the following spring. So a couple of days won’t matter at all!

[bikerbudmatt]

@Sp33

so I’m hoping when I remove the shims it will move down a bit to ease removal, theoretically it could work!

You’ve hit on a method that others have also tried with good results. Most builders say that removing the form is the single toughest task in this whole build, but having a little leverage through shims helps a lot.

[bikerbudmatt]

One tip: if you do pause working sessions, please make sure you wet down at least the last course of brick you laid previously, and that you are soaking your firebrick before you lay them. Dry brick will suck the moisture out of wet mortar and interfere with adhesion.